Nurungukal   contd ............

                                My eldest brother who was working in a government department in Khozikode brought seedlings of a Chambakam and a grafted mango. I still remember how much care mother had taken to grow them. Both started flowering after 3 to 4 years. Every morning mother used to go round and round them in search of flowers and fruits. She was so happy the day when she located a mango and used to show it to all those who visited our house. In the first year there were only  one or two  golden yellow flowers on Chembakam and their fragrance was so nice. Similarly the mango fruits also tasted so sweet. Over the years the production increased. Me and my younger brother used to pluck the flowers and fruits very carefully under the strict supervision of mother. We had special hooks to pluck so that the mango will not fall on the ground and get damaged. Chemkam branches are very tender so we used a long pole with a fork at the top while we balanced on the lower branches. Both of them gained popularity as mother used to offer the produces to each and every important visitor, explaining their characteristics. The demand for the Chemkam flower grew especially among the Muslim ladies.Initially they were given free. Later a buyer came forward to market them. We called him Koya. A tiny person. Low in wight and adept in climbing to the top. He would precariously balance even on tender branches and collected the flowers briskly. Every noon he will appear and announce his attendance by a  loud call AMMAAA and started his work without waiting for permission. By the time mother woke from her short nap he would have spread the flowers on the front varandha. He took only the best ones and others  were offered to mother free !!.I remember that mother got only 2 or 3  nayapaise per flower were as he sold them at a premium price of 25 paise to his regular customers. But mother never asked for a better price. She would only say if questioned that let him have a livelihood !!. The most interesting part of this business was that he would often take back the amount given to mother as loan which remained unsettled !!.He continued this for many many years . Then slowly thee were long gaps in his visits . Much later we came to know that his call Ammaaaa will be never heard. He succumbed to dreadful disease Thus another link in mothers livelihood chain was cutoff !!!.

Nurungukal  contd......

                                As soon as they get a signal from the main stake holders, the first pair of animals would brought to the field accompanied by loud shouts and arpu vilikal. The whole crowd responds to it in higher notes. There would be a rush of spectators to have la clear glimps of the event and in the process weaklings like us rarely get a good position. But in our case special view points would have been arranged by the brother of our brother-in-law. All on a sudden the yoked animals would enter the play field  jumping over the ridges like a bullet and would take a fast lap, in agony.Much later only I came to know that how much torture those poor dump creatures had to suffer in order make  we humans happy. But in a game like this there is no relevance to such sentiments. One after other they were taken round and each pair trying to attain supremacy over the other . Some times they will run into the crowd if the men loose control causing injury to many. Every such accidents were taken lightly as the spectators were equally agile to dodge from  such attacks.

                                As the animals dash through the mud they were controlled by two or three trainers. The Jockey rider will balance on a wooden plank attached to the yoke prompting the animals to gain speed and in the process he often bites their tails and hit them hard. Others will run along with the animals to maintain the line and also to scare them by shouting and beating. As the animals gained speed mud would be syphoned through the holes on the plank. The height it goes indicates the speed and control of the jockey. The winner is decided by a team of experts and the price money depended on the capacity of the organiser. Prominent farmers and locals gave gifts either in cash or clothes  as a gesture of encouragement.  The winners would be positioned in a convenient place to  show them to the public and many interesting stories would be spread about their performance, features etc etc. After a sumptuous late lunch the crowd would disperse reluctantly with a hope to attend a similar event  next year. In the departing lot we could see many trying to balance on their two legs as a result of the country brew they had consumed. Yet others would be trying to make intimate passes towards other sex providing native love scenes. To us the day was full of fun and frolic.  Such events took place in our society with out any sort of prompting , but as part of our culture.  Bygones are always bygones.

Nurungukal  cntd......

                                Our next joyful event in Anakara was the kalapoottu. The entire community, especially the farmers and farm workers took part in it. It is connected with the transplantation of paddy.  The entire stretch of fields would have been already prepared for transplanting paddy seedlings. In the middle a big plot would be prepared specially for conducting the kalapoottu. The level of water and the depth of the mud is to be maintained properly so that the animals can run at high speed without skidding.  From early morning the preparations commence under the guidance pf experienced hands. The entire event will be managed by one or two big land lords. They organise such events to project their image and power. Many such families have , in later years become bankrupts, as these shows depletes their funds .

                                One such character was a cosine of my brother-in-law.  It  was a sight to see him going round the field shouting gesturing at people, in his silk juba and dark glass. Short in stature but a bundle of energy he maintained a charismatic control over the event till the end. My brother-in-law’s younger brother would hold a low profile yet others took his advice very seriously and held him in high esteem.  Many young volunteers would be moving around , with a head dress and tucked dhothi ready to take up responsibiliyies. Food and tea would be always  at your call. A little bit away from the field clandestine sale of other drinks would exhilarate the mela. Groups of men and village damsels clustered here and there enjoying the activities and waiting  joyfully for the entry of the animals. Occasionally they would also be singing loudly  couplets of popular nadan pattu, which would be reciprocated by the entire crowd with a clap and whistling.

                                Before noon the oxen and buffaloes would start reaching,  pair by pair. They would be positioned  at different places, and immediately the crowd in groups surrounded them, eagerly in search of their profiles. These animals were controlled by robust farm workers half clad and drenched in mud and water, Each of these animals were owned by rich farmers hailing from many parts of Palghat and adjacent area. The selection of animals are very meticulously done considering their pedigree and physical features. They were trained and nurtured with utmost care, and each would cost a few thousands even in those days.......to be contd......

Nurungukal  contd.....

                                Ever since our sister’s marriage we spent a few days in our brother- in- law’s house at Anakara during holidays.. It used to be always eventful because  his sister’s children were of our age except the last one who was a child then.  From Neeliyad it is a brisk walk on a serpentine mud road. On both sides of the road there were a stretch of lush green paddy fieldld. As if giving a company a canal flowed  with a mummer occasionally interrupted by the call of a water fowl. On the banks of it  healthy bushes of KAITHA provided shelter to many lower creatures like turtles. Mongoose and many species of fish. During night we heard the loud howling of packs of fox calling each other in chorus. There were  a few old mansions built of late rite and tiles at the foot of the hillocks adjacent to the paddy field, struggling to show up a past  feudal  glory. And the horizon far away was silhouetted with a row of  low mountains beyond which Nila flew majestically.

                                During such journeys Chathu the trusted assistant was our companion and caretaker. He would guide us with utmost humility, carrying our bags till we reach safely the destination with out uttering a word, but putting up a contended smile. For the service which he offered to our family till his retirement  I with all humility record here a word of gratitude and respect. Since I had many occasions of close association with him till I left Ponani after getting employed in Railways, I can with out any reservation vouchsafe his sincerity and loyalty to our family.

                                As there were no phone connection , our arrival was always a surprise and they jumped in joy.There were many  exclusive events which we enjoyed only in Anakara. My brother –in-law’s sister was  so lovable and gracious. She made sure that our stay on each occasion was memorable . It was a home away from our home. She used to take care of every thing we need . The food she specially made for us was  so tasty and delightful, especially her  recipe of dried sharks . I do not know  whether any of her daughters has acquired that talent .

                                Their house was on the slope of a hillock facing a long stretch of paddy field. Arecanut was their  main crop.In summer the arecanut trees were irrigated by drawing water from a deep well with the help of bullocks. It was known as KALA THEKU. In Ponani we drew water by hand lifting. The water is fetched from the well in an iron basket. The bullocks are brought near to the well and when the water is scooped in will be lifted as the bullocks  are lead forward. As the basket with water reaches the top it will be tilted by the operator by a rope {THUMBI } on which he is sitting . The whole exercise takes only a few minutes and the water will gush through the channels with force.  It needs  some  experience to  operate the system , especially to control the animals.

                                

Nurungukal  contd.....

                                We returned after a short sojourn in Calicut. Mother was anxious to know the details of the trip and the welfare of her brother and his family. She was much attached to them as she was looking after them for a period when uncle's wife died at an early age......... Slowly we returned to our routine life.

                                We always welcomed the arrival of our post man. From morning till after noon we can see him at his heels swinging the umbrella  as if to balance the stride. Holding the bundle of posts in the other hand , occasionally exchanging their positions. He will sit on the veranda and will announce his arrival by shouting ‘POST’.  He was careful to hand over the letters only to an elder member of the family. Fair ,lanky with a black puff like moustache he was very courteous and loved by one and all. Apart from his duty he spread a message of togetherness and love.  We were fascinated to watch the conversation between mother and he. After taking a glass of sambaram he would continue on his duty.

                                If the cover he delivered was blue we were sure that it was from our sister who was in Calcutta , Our brother- in -law was fond of blue and it looked  gracious. Often there used to be some photos . He had a box type KodaK camera and was an expert in capturing nice shots. I think his eldest son , who is now a retired officer has inherited the same quality. But the olden days black and white pictures stand out even now. After reading the letter immediately mother will write a long reply in which every thing which had happened in the immediate past would be recorded with minute details.  My father would write a few sentences in his long hand, impeccable and stylish. Those days that was the only mode of communication. Occasionally we would also scribble a few sentences , listing the items to be brought on her next visit. The habit of exchanging letters was an effective media for acquiring a creative taste.

                                

Nurungukal  contd......

                                Calicut was commercially an important destination in Malabar. The Big Bazar was famous for whole sale trade of almost all the items we need. Rice was a main commodity. Brokers facilitated the deals. The retailers purchased stocks through these brokers . The price of the commodities were fixed between the broker and the wholesaler in a peculiar manner. By holding their fingers under a towel will finalise the deal Then the broker negotiates with the retailer . The buyer is kept in dark the price agreed between the broker and whole saler.  From early morning Bullock carts will start arriving from  far and near. By noon the market will be crowded with bullock carts and  trolleys of varying capacity. The  loading and unloading  of goods will be over by 3 to 4 pm  and the market  will be deserted by late evening.

                                Traders from different parts of India mainly Gujaraties had settled down in Calicut. Gujaraties were known as Settus. There is a  street  named Gujaraty street. Nagji Purushotham Das was a very famous umbrella manufacturer. Those days there was a foot ball tournament  in his name and in which many popular teams from all over India took part. A team from Pakisthan also used to participate.

                                The towering chimneys of many tile factories in  Feroke made beautiful silhouettes as the sun made a slow dip into the Arabian sea. The timing of their sirens was synchronised to give an effect of the sound of many bugles playing in chorus. The Kallai river banks were full of huge logs of wood , mainly from Nilambur forest waiting to be sawed in one of the many saw mills.  They looked like rows of hippos basking in sun  on the banks of an African river.

                The  positive energy that we earned at Calicut beach was either  from the ecstasy of witnessing  an enchanting sun set  or by mingling in a vibrant crowd or in making a sand castle or by crumbling a few roasted pea nut pods, or by the intake of an  ozone rich breeze, I did not know. With much reluctance we bid good bye. On the way back a walk through the Sweet Meat street {S.M. STREET or MITTAYI THERUVU } was a different experience. Rows of shops selling many sweets,garments , toys , books etc  with luminous bulbs glaring at you was a sight to watch. As a grand finale we for the first time in our life enjoyed  the taste of Masala Dosai and filter coffee from the famous Shantha  Bhavan hotel.  That night we slept with these sweet memories  . But next day we bade farewell to Calicut with a hope to return at the very next opportunity.

Nurungukal  contd......

                                Next day evening we went to see  the  exhibition , wearing our new bush shirts and shorts. It was in the Samoothari Raja school ground . In front of it the Thali Shiva Temple pond  lay where many people were taking an evening bath. I was told that there are many such ponds in Chalapuram  and so the wells in the locality will not dry up even during the hottest summer . And that would have been the main reason for patronising this area by the elites. These temple ponds are the best models of rain water harvesting.

                                 We entered into the ground through a decorated gate . It was much bigger and more colourful than the ones we had seen in temple festivals. Each class room was a stall selling different items. The first few were for kitchen wares. Next for fancy items like earrings ,garlands,bangles etc etc  which were crowded by girls and women. A few grownup boys , may be college students were trying to squeeze through them who were immersed in selecting their favourite items. Some of them were throwing an angry eye on to the passersby. People moved through the serpentine path enjoying the displays or  making purchases, or exchanging pleasantries . And we drifted with them  as dry twigs in a turbulent stream. As we moved forward hand in hand, more and more exiting stalls appeared. 

                                A man clad in a three piece suit and black cap was inviting the passersby to take a photo in the company of  film stars or sitting in a car or on the moon etc.  We preferred the crescent moon.  That photo was with my mother till her death and I do not know were it is now . A magician's performance was very amazing, so was some circus items such as jugglery with balls , bottles, squeezing through a small ring. Parrots and dogs pulling fancy carts. There was an exclusive area for gambling. Many items of skills with the use of pistol, arrow, rings, balls etc  attracted a big crowd, because the offers were enchanting.

                                The merry go round section was our favourite, riding on a wooden horse, or car etc was very funny. There was a model aeroplane. One or two can sit in it. When  the pilot started it  will go a few feet high and landed with a thud . That was really a new experience .  Then the death well. It was a well made of wooden planks over ground. A motor cyclist will run a few circles in the bottom of the well  and suddenly as he gains speed took the cycle in rounds to the top and continued  to run at a speed making a pada pada sound and after a few rounds landed  at the bottom safely. It was adventur from the start to the end.This was my first experience and years later I have witnessed the same event in which a car and cycle, some time two cycles jointly performing !!  The last event on every night was a fire dive. On one side of a well filled with water  there will be a  high tower . A man wearing red pants and shirt will position at the top step.  After a mike announcement about the adventurous event  petrol will be poured in the well and ignited.Then the man on top will also pour some on him  and after igniting will jump into the blazing well with a loud sound  and simultaneously the fire will get extinguished. He will get out of the well unhurt!  I have seen every one holding their breath as the man in the shape of a fire ball slowly descending from that height and plummeting in to the water. To me it was the greatest show on earth then. later it was discontinued due to safety reasons. With our mind full of joy  and thrill returned home to explore Calicut next day.