Nurungukal  contd........

                                Where as other stations were open , Calicut was a covered one.It was a different world all together.Hawkers were shouting  Chaya  Chaya   and the name of other eatables in a chorus and briskly walking from one compartment  to another.. A few porters in red shirts and khaky shorts approached us to carry the luggage outside . But we  managed it ourselves. The guard and the station master looked like naval officers in their white uniform, cap and shoulder badges .Both were Anglo Indians fair and handsome . They stood apart from the crowd.

                                Every one was in a hurry to get outside and so there was  a sort of hurry bury at the exit gate and the ticket collector was busy in snatching the tickets.  A row of  horse carts were waiting for the passengers. They were known as Governer’cart. It was the first time I have seen such an elegant cart. There were also some Rikshaws and one or two private cars. The cart men and rikshaw pullers urged  the crowd to hire their vehicles. Since our place was near to the station we carried our bags and on foot reached home . It was were our uncle was staying . He was practising law in Calicut bar and  a very senior hand.

                                Chalapuram  in those days  was known for its elite crowd. Doctors ,lawyers, and fairly rich people were the residents. But side by side we could see people from lower strata  also making a living, mainly as cart men, rikshaw pullers  etc etc. It was on a Sunday we reached  there., the day when alms are offered. We witnessed  old men and  women going from house to house in batches to collect alms.  As children we could not understand the message such scenes  made on the social imbalance prevailed in those days. But definitely it had made some dents in me.  But on the contrary in another case I was  enthused to meet  a totally blind person  managing a livelihood  circumventing his handicap in the foot paths of Chalapuram  by selling vegetables. My uncle and his children were staying in a fairly big house ever since he started practising law. My eldest brother was also with them . He was an officer in a govt. deprt. Almost every student from our family had their college education  staying with uncle , including me.

                                

Nurungukal  contd.....

                                My eldest brother joined Government service.His younger brother took up a job inBhavani Hydel project in amil Nadu as a mechanic.Next one  Angappettan  was employed as a Demonstrater in Victoria College Palghat.  It was in a summer holidays  that Angapetan made a benovalant gesture to take me and my kid brother to Calicut to show an ehibition . I remember that my parents were not prepared to send maily because that we did not have good dress to  wear in a city lie Calicut. It was decided to stitch a naw pair. Usually on such occasions when father did not have enough funds he raised a loan  from Mambetta stores.  Mother was very particular that the dress should be in a new style and she chose Bush Shirt and shorts { trousers }which  was a fashion in Burma When she was there many years ago !.Our tailer in Ponani was not familiar with the design. Mother dug out an old photograph of my elder brothers  wearing bush shirts . As mother was familiar with dress cutting it was easy for the tailer { gopalan } to stitch in exact measurements. We were in a different world  while walking through the streets of Calicut wearing the exclusive ly styled dress.

                                                The journey to Calicut was a new experence to us . At that time Kuttipuram bridge was not constructed. We had to reach Calicut via Tirur crossing Bharatha Puzha. We reached the Western bank of the river on foot covering a short distance in a country boat, as water was deep for us. Walking on the crystal like sand was tiresome as for making each step we had to pull out our feet  from the sand. As we were overwhelmed  some how caught up with others.

                                                From Chammaravattam to Tirur the journey was in a bus and from there in train. This was our first trip in train. Totally a new experience. A stam engine was pulling 3 or 4 compartments , blowing a shreeking whistle now and then . Many hawkers selling  fruits and pea nuts frequented the comartments and each time we looked at our brother  in eagerness. But he avoided  us  looking at the passing land scapes. The seating arrangement in the comp. Was diferent then. It was length wise and passengers sat face to face. The hawkers and afew daring boys  stood on the foot planks out side the train precariosly holding on the windows. We had done the same mode of travel after many years when we were college students. We reached Calicut after a prolonged journey. And by the time we steped out of train our dress was spoiled by black cosl powder...............................

Nurungukal  contd.....

                                In 1950s it was a male dominant society. Very few women ventured to make a livelihood of their own. But Ennassery Ammu Amma, affectionately addressed as AMMOMA  stood apart. She found her living by selling milk and milk products.She was above 70 at that time. Slim and beautiful, although her fair skin was wrinkled. Dressed in crisp white with a slight bend, moved around elegantly. She always maintained half a dozen good cows. Without any male assistance she managed the venture proudly. One or two women workers helped to bring green fodder. In other words it was an all women show. Her day starts early in the morning  { vella keerumbol  By noon she would complete the distribution of milk to some exclusive customers. She chose the customer assessing their credibility. Very much professional in that respect. Then it is time to take care of the animals which  she did with meticulous care and love. Each cow was called by a pet name  such as chinnu, ponnu, karumbi, pulli , etc and they responded to her calls. After noon session is for selling milk products. She had an inborn capacity to prepare them  and they were in great demand. It was during such  time she paid a visit to my mother to exchange pleasantries and to carry news. The role of a mobile news channel !!. Usually at that time mother will be enjoying her siesta on the back side THINNA. Both were good conversationalists, hence the session went  on and on, intermittently with loud laughter. I used to enjoy their performance . Ammoma’s presence can be felt from the aroma of pure ghee .

                                Now being a dairy farmer I understands the amount of effort she might have put in to make a living. Women like her were the fore runners carrying the message of women empowerment . Now I can only  offer   this tiny paragraph to pay  homage to such bygone heroins.

Nurungukal  cntd.......

                                Krishnan and family were our neighbours. His wife Devaki and his sister Ammu worked with us.His brother Kuttappa was a coconut tree climber, but in an accident when his right arm was broken  he continued as a facilitator managing a team of climbers.Krishnan  was a cattle broker [PORUTHUKARAN }. He was unique and most wanted. Father depended on him to purchase cows. He was a well known person in almost all the cattle shanties, viz; Perumpilavil chantha, Vaniyamkode chantha etc. When required father will ask him to locate a cow. He will already have a list with exact descriptions. Out of this he will short list one or two and next day early morning will go for an inspection. If it is a holiday I will also accompany them. On foot we would cover at least three to four miles. The owner will be ready to milk. Father will go round the cow and would ask the owner to take the cow for a walk to know whether she had any defective legs.He will ensure the cow has bright eyes , long tail touching the floor, the udder is fairly big and the tits are equally positioned etc. The colour of the cow and sex of the calf are also important factors. A female calf can fetch better price.  Single colour, wide ears, short horns and soft skin etc are good characteristics. But only on few occasions such a cow can be found,  When the negotiation progress all these will surface.

                                Those days a good cow produced around 2 to 3 litres of milk. It was expressed in terms of nazhi about 200 ml. If the milk was not up to the projected quantity Krishnan would have a ready explanation. For example Our presence has frightened her and the lactation has been controlled by her, or the previous night the calf had sucked the tits etc  .etc . After a prolonged exchange of arguments and counters the price will be fixed and by evening she will be brought our house .

                                The ordeal commences next day morning. There was a lady  named Kunhamma to look after the cattle. When  she is about to touch the tits either the cow will give a kick or move out. After a prolonged  effort she will manage to milk half the quantity which was promised.  Some times the bucket will be kicked out just escaping the face of Kunhamma, or it will attempt to gore her. But Kunhamma will not succumb . if needed she would tie the cow tight to the pole or even the legs to accomplish the task .Immediately Krishnan will be summoned. He will appear before father showing all signs of reverence.  That posture is still fresh in me.He will remain slightly stooping forward, with  a  towel [ THORTH ] kept in between  arm and body { kaksham } and with a special facial expression showing his stained teeth. Father will be in his easy chair and  mother will take up the issue  in a hostile manner. But  Krishnan who is an expert  to  deal such out bursts will remain poised  and will put forth a number of reasons which we ha d to accept graciously..

                                I still remember an incident  in which he applied his presence of mind to buy a cow  for which there were many takers in Perumpilavil Chanda .  Many aspirants were surrounding it and there was no possibility of striking a low deal. His customer was very fond of the animal and wanted to buy. But what to do . Others were equally  fond of. It was now Krishnan used his sixth sense. He went round the animal and made a statement which was heard by the crowd.  "Hey this cow was  the one which had fallen in a well a few days ago , so let us with draw".  On hearing this one by one withdrew  and he easily fixed a deal for his customer. He had unique ways of striking deals which will satisfy both parties. I am yet to come across such a breed of cattle brokers . My salute to his professionalism.

Nurungukal  cntd........

                                We found our living from agriculture, although later we were forced to take up other  jobs to make both ends meet. So essentially our roots  were attached with  nature, more specifically with  PANCHABOOTHAMS. Among the five , earth and water were close to our heart. I strongly believe that sustainable agriculture and conservation of nature resources are inter related. That is why we give a stamp of ‘culture’ to that life saving activity. 

                                Kerala is blessed with two seasons of monsoon because of her position in the NILGIRI BIOSPHERE. Medam is our first month in Malayaklam era. Aswathi Nhattuvela commences on the first of Medam and others  { aswathi, bharani ............................etc. etc } ,each following one after the other with a gap of 13 days. Each one has a definite influence on the growth of plants.

                                Just before VISHU  a light drizzle facilitates sowing of paddy. As the month progress sporadic rains  accompanied by cool breeze  help the formation of moist atmosphere which helps the sprouting of seeds.  Come June the days of down pours. On the first of June when we are about to set to school after a happy vacation , a mummer, chill breeze, swaying of leaves, sound of falling pearls on the roof  , then  water  flowing through the channels of the roof tiles all around the house like a silver curtain, yes  rainy days are ahead.

                                On that day by dusk  a  chorus gaining pitch as the night proceeds can be heard . , The orchestra , where unknown notes are played  , is at its best. The performers are our little friends who have a missions to achieve in their short span of life. From the nearby paddy fields Tigrina frogs will be calling their mates at high pitch PEKROM PEKROM.  Through small burrows white ants { termites } will emerge in swam  fluttering for a while and completing their destiny. In the dark a swam of glow worms  will move around illuminating on and off. We used to catch one or two and keep in a glass bottle, inquisitively.

                                The situation changes by Edavapathy. Water will be gushing every where. Ponds wells , rivers . rivulets and paddy fields will all be overflowing. The level of water in the vast stretches of paddy fields  in  front of our house raises , forming into a lake . Our joy will reach new heights. In batches we go round splashing muddy water on to each other and will be totally wet which of course would attract a punishment. Our house is a NALUKETU. Rain water will splash in the NADUMITTAM making a rhythmic sound. This provides a one to one chat with nature. It was fascinating to watch the water slowly rising up in the fields and inundating the whole area. Big logs , fallen banana plants ,some times even a dead animal and many other odd things will come floating . Some adventurous youngsters dragged  these to the shore and made a living. Our fancy was to tie up a few banana plants and float on the water.  When the level and speed of the water reaches beyond control no such fun were allowed. Fishing was another hobby during such time. Toy boats made of coconut fronts will be set on sail . It is fun to watch them take speed and disappear or sink in the gushing water. Monsoon was always a source for frolics When the water recedes we saw the naked and rejuvenated soil ready for cultivation.....

Nurungukal  contd..................

                                My father and mother were poles apart in behaviour. He was a man of few words. Were as mother was vociferous and a continuous performer. She was a social being, involving in welfare activities. She maintained a friendly relationship with one and all, irrespective of their social status.  Father had his own reservations in mingling , but respected values. There used to be one or two visitors every day, from different walks of life. She had long sessions of talk with each one which very often prolonged till she bade them  farewell at the gate. I have seen, if it is a close relative they continue the chat after taking one or two strides between gate and the house !. And she would come back running to attend father  who would be relaxing on an easy chair . In fact I am yet to find a pair with such contrasts,living in perfect harmony.

                                One frequent visitor was Chathettan who was a distant relative of us. He was our neighbour. He was short and robust. We enjoyed his way of walking, taking short steps and his finger made a TUP TUP noise. I think he should have been awarded a KARSHAKASHREE if the Govt had such a one at that point of time. I learnt the basic lessons of paddy cultivation from him. From early in the morning we can hear his loud calls alerting the workers about he day’s work. Then the team usually accompanied by many pairs of buffaloes will set to the fields .His return will be late in the evening or if there is not much work by noon.  After a  luxurious bath in the pond and belly full of rice porridge the days news paper will be read siting in the gate house which we enjoyed. By 6 pm he will reach our house with out fail and the long session starts. The trio, father mother and Chathettan will be seated in their regular places i.e, father on easy chair, mother on the WOODEN PADI and Chathettan  on the floor.Mother would serve a  big glass of coffee to all. The conversation will touch upon each and every latest topic and some times on his past experiences in north India. A phrase he very often used was  Ammukutiye ninakunda kattu kutugniyittu. And by about 7.30 pm he will take leave making the same stride and TUP TUP sound.None of them are with us now . But I feel their presence  while brushing up such memories.

Nurungukal  cntd.......

                                It started raining cats and dogs on the morning of the marriage. A visit to our family temple by the bride's party had to be arranged , to accept the blessings of the Goddess. In hose days that was  a practise which can not be avoided. There was no possibility of arranging any kind of conveyance, so the bride accompanied by very close relatives and the Nadaswaram set was sent. They returned a few minutes before the Muhoortham fully wet but satisfied for accomplishing the mission. A few minutes later the bridegroom party reached the venue . While the bride was dressing for the occasion, the visitors were received at the entrance of the Panthal,as usual  by sprinkling rose water and washing the feet of the bridegroom. There were about fifty of them .There was a big metal trunk box  of dress for the bride and and a few baskets of vegetables , sweets and provisions , which was received by my brothers. Every body talked in subdued voice , and few calls now and then together reached a crescendo when the bride arrived blushed  in her pure white cloths . She looked extremely gorgeous. The nadaswaram party was trying to show there excellence , playing many classical ragas. We fancied to watch the piper whose cheeks were blowing according to the pitch .Other artists made typical movements to attract the attention.

                                The bride was taken to the Mani panthal  with a traditional retinue. She was seated on the left side of the bridegroom and the rest is part of our family history. We were just enjoying each activity and were not in a mood to paste them in our memory. Unfortunately those events were not recorded . Now we are left to depend on the impressions in our mind

                                Then the crowd  slowly started clustering conveying pleasantries, getting introduced to new relationships and refreshing broken links. My mother was standing out from the rest showing her in born ability of entertainment The feast followed and slowly the people started bidding good bye and the house and panthal was almost deserted. When my sister also bade a farewell I was standing in the middle trying to restrain from  sobbing................... !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!